Japanese Chicken Curry from Scratch

A couple of times a year, I forget about the frustration I felt the last time I tried to make Japanese curry from scratch and decide to make it again.  It's not that it's terribly difficult, but it's always more time-consuming than expected, and there are a few key elements that can really throw it off if not done correctly.

Of course, Japanese curry is a rather simple dish to make if you buy the pre-made roux blocks, which contain a majority of the seasoning and thickening agents needed to make the curry turn out right.  This is the most common way to make it in Japan as well and the results are generally pretty good, but the roux blocks tend to be higher in sodium and MSG than scratch-made versions.  Plus, I'm always up for a challenge.

I referenced a few recipes but landed on a modified version of this Vegan Japanese Curry that I subsequently made non-vegan by adding chicken and butter to it, but it'd be pretty easy to swap these out if you like.  The result was a rich and tasty curry that was among the best results I've had for this dish, not least because the sauce reached an appropriate thickness and deep brown color.  The key really is a good roux and patience while caramelizing the onions, and the recipe below will help you achieve both.

Japanese Chicken Curry from Scratch
2-3 lbs boneless skinless chicken breasts or thighs, cut into chunks
1 cup mixed frozen peas and carrots
3 cups vegetable stock
2 medium brown onions, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp ginger, grated
1 apple, grated
2 tbsp katsu sauce or Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp ketchup
1 tsp cocoa powder
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp curry powder
2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp cayenne pepper (this results in a pretty spicy curry, so adjust as necessary)
1 tbsp all purpose flour
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp vegetable oil

Add 1 tbsp oil to a skillet, and add diced onions to pan over medium heat.  Cover pan and allow onions to sweat 2-3 min.  Stir onions and recover pan; repeat every 3 minutes for 30-60 min, until onions are thoroughly caramelized and very soft (almost paste-like).  You'll likely need to add a splash of water at several points throughout this process to deglaze the pan - do this whenever you see bits of brown residue building up on the bottom.  Doing this regularly will help draw rich, savory flavor back into the onions without allowing any bits to burn.

To make the roux, melt the butter over medium heat.   Add curry powder and cayenne, and stir together with butter, cooking for about 1 minute.  Add flour and cook for an additional minute.  Roux should resemble a crumbly paste.  Remove from heat and set aside.

Add remaining 1 tbsp oil to pot or dutch oven.  Add garlic and ginger and cook 1 minute, until fragrant.  Add chicken and season with salt.  Cook chicken, stirring frequently, until browned on the outside.  Add vegetable stock, frozen vegetables, apple, katsu sauce, ketchup, cocoa powder, and bay leaves, and bring to a boil.  Reduce to simmer and let cook for 10 min.

Ladle 1/2 cup of the liquid into the roux, and stir until dissolved.  Add this mixture back to the pot, and cook for an additional 2-3 minutes until sauce thickens.  Serve immediately with rice and fukujinzuke (pickled radishes, totally essential here).